Mount Ama Dablam has been considered the prettiest mountain in the world. High on her Southwest face hangs a glacier resembling a 'Dablam' - the sacred ornament box worn by ladies in the Sherpa community. It was this spectacular feature that got her the name "Ama Dablam". She lies alongside Everest in the heart of the Khumbu valley offering a superb diversions close up view of Mt. Everest & Mt Lhotse is the north, Mt. Makalu in the east and Mt. Cho Oyu is in west. Normally, three camps are set in Ama Dablam climbing above the base camp (4,570m), however, only two camps are used to spend the nights. The normal route for climbing is South-West Ridge. The ascent from Base Camp to camp 1st is considered one the difficult days of the expedition.
Mt. Pumori expedition Base camp will be set up at about 5300m. We climb through the glaciers for approximately 4 hours and reach Camp 1 at 5700m. From Camp 1, we climb 480m. on the face with 40 to 60 degrees slope and pass through a snow wall to reach camp 2 at 6200 meter on a narrow ridge. From camp 2, we climb approximately 450 meter through ice with 30-60 degrees slopes passing through ice walls and crevasses. This section is prone to avalanches from big seracs hanging on the shoulder above. Camp 3 will be set up at an altitude of 6, 480meter on the ridge. Passing through crevasses, we climb up to Pumori cliff and then to the summit. There are many mountaineers climbing Pumori, check their technical skills and their feelings as well as experience of climbing Himalayas in Nepal to prepare for 8000 meter peaks in Nepal for the future climbing plan.
Experience Required: All climbers need to have good skills on rock and ice climbing and technically competent. On most parts of the routes there will be fixed rope, however, the climbers should posses skills of climbing through steep rock and hard compact ice. We follow the standard South West ridge route (normal route) to the top, as it is consider the safe route, free from the objective danger such as avalanche and so on. The route we follow begins at Lukla (2850m) and the initial days of the trek pass through the legendary Sherpa country up the spectacular high valley of the Khumbu. Most of the route on the actual climbing is fixed with no icefall or glacier to negotiate, and most of it is concentrated on the crest of a ridge. The climb is relatively safe though exposed and sheep and not really a mountain for debutantes. We have designed the programs to climb Island Peak 6189m. before go to Ama Dablam Expedition. It is easier for those people who like to get summit of Ama Dablam. Climbing Pumori requires a moderate technical climb on ice and snow. The normal route for the climbing is South East Ridge. We have designed the expedition itinerary for those climbers who like to do combined expedition in Nepal.
If you have your own private group or team, please e-mail us to know the price and details of expedition.
If you are alone and looking for a group to join then visit our fix-departure expedition information.
Day 01: Arrive Kathmandu
Arrive to Kathmandu, an exciting and memorable experience with the panoramic view of snow-capped Himalayan range greets your sight.
Independent Himalayan Adventure's Airport Representative will meet you at the airport and take you to your hotel. After arrival to hotel, Short briefing and final payment procedures.
Day 02 : Kathmandu Permit preparation
We will finalize paperwork-permit for your trip. Final checking preparatio of your climbing equipments. Sightseeing tours of Kathmandu Valley.
Day 03 : Kathmandu
Briefing in Ministry of Tourism, Mountaineering Section. Get pemit and final prepare for next day flight to Lukla.
Day 04 : Fly to Lukla and trek to Phakding.
An early morning goto the Kathmandu Domestic Airport Terminal for the 35 minute scenic flight to Lukla at 2804 meters. On arrival at the Lukla airport guide will brief you and introduce our supporters before we begin our trek towards Phakding at 2610 meters. Approx 3 hours Trekking.
Day 05 : Trek to Namche Bazzar (3441 meters)
Trek to Namche Bazaar (3441 meters) 5.30 hours. Namche Bazaar known as the capital of Khumbu and the Gateway to Everest which is home to many good hotels and lodges here, along the whole Everest trail this is quite a big village.
Day 06 : Acclimatization day- Namche Bazzar (3441 m.)
We will spend a day here in order to acclimatize and adjust to the thinning of the air. As well as a short trek where a museum is celebrating the traditional customs of the Sherpa people. Today we hike up the Syangboche Airport around Everest View Hotel. From this point, we can see rewarding views of the Himalayas with a stunning sunrise and sunset over the panorama of Khumbu peaks.
Day 07 : Trek to Tyangboche (3800 meters) 6 hrs
Trek to Tyangboche (3800 meters). You will get first darshan of Tyangboche Monastery this day.
It will take us around 5-6 hrs from Namche to Tyangboche
Day 08 : Trek to Pangboche (3900 meters)
Day 09 : Trek to Ama Dablam Base Camp (4600 meters)
Pangboche to Mt. Ama Dablam Base Camp (4600 m). Around 5 hrs
Day 10 : Ama Dablam Base Camp (4600 meters)
Settle Amadablam Base Camp. Make Puja by Lama (if orgaised it) for Succession of Expedition.
Day 11-26 : Ama Dablam (6812 meters) Climbing Period
Climbing period of Mt. Ama Dablam-6812 meters. Be successful Climber. and afte summit, clean Base Camp well.
Day 27 : Ama Dablam Base Camp to Pheriche (4243 m.)
After successfully summit of Ama Dablam (6812 meters) back to Base camp then trek to Pheriche (4223 meters) to continue your expedition to the Mount Pumroi next.
Day 28 : Pheriche - Lobuche (4930m)
From Pheriche, your trek will continue to Lobuche (4930 meters), where from you will see your targeted Peak Mt. Pumori very well.
Day 29 : Lobuche - Pumori Base Camp
Day 30-44 : Climbing Period for Mt. Pumori 7145m.
Day 45 : Pumori Base Camp - Lobuche
Day 46 : Lobuche - Thyangboche
Day 47 : Tyangboche - Namche
Day 48 : Namche to Lukla (2886 m.)
Day 49 : Fly back to Kathmandu.
Morning flight back to Kathmandu. Enjoying your last glimpse of the mountains you have recently visited for one last time on the 35 minute Scenic flight back to Kathmandu.
Day 50-51 : 2 Reserve days. Free Day in Kathmandu. visit around.
2 Reserve days. Free Day in Kathmandu. visit around.
Day 52 : Departure from Kathmandu.
After breakfast; morning is free for shopping or individual activities. Transfer to Tribhuvan International Airport (TIA) Kathmandu for Final Departure.