24 Hours Support
+977 - 9869006383

  • Tripadvisor

Amadablam North-West Ridge Expedition

Ama Dablam 6812m, normal route is easier than North West ridge. More steep climbing almost from ABC to TOP. You need fixed rope at 4500m. In May 1979 Jeff Lowe made a remarkable solo ascent of the wildly fluted South Face, emerging just beneath its vertical headwall on to the original route.
$ Contact for price USD
Make Inquiry

  • Overview
  • Itinerary
  • Cost Info

Ama Dablam 6812m, normal route is easier than North West ridge. More steep climbing almost from ABC to TOP. You need fixed rope at 4500m. In May 1979 Jeff Lowe made a remarkable solo ascent of the wildly fluted South Face, emerging just beneath its vertical headwall on to the original route. That autumn a French expedition led by Louis Absorber also climbed the North Ridge.

It is fine route, harder than the South -West Ridge, with rock at the start, and an extravagantly corniced snow ridge near the top. While the French were on the North Ridge, disaster struck a New Zealand team attempting the West Face, when a huge section of the upper hanging glacier crashed down, killing Ken Hyslop and badly injuring peter Hillary and his other two companions. This face would appear to be very dangerous but it has since been climbed, solo by the well-known Czech climber Miri Smid in 1987.

Two routes were added in 1985. In November, Hooman Aprin and Randy Harrington (USA) with the Spaniard Martin Zabaleta climbed the South-East or (Left) Dwarfed by the immense ice cliffs of the Dablam, a lone climber abseils back to the top camp from the summit ice field. (Below) A typical situation on the South-West Ridge, near the base of the Yellow Tower , Behind is the famous silhouettes of Kantega (left) and Tramserku. ( Bill O'Connor) Lagunak Ridge, Again, this ridge was slightly harder than the original route with the main difficulties on snow mushrooms and fluting. Tucked away at the back of the mountain, normally seen only by people climbing on Island Peak or Lhotse , or from high on Everest, this secret face was a formidable and potentially dangerous challenge.

The danger was minimized by tackling the face in winter, with daytime temperatures well bellow freezing; the technical difficulties were subdued by the very experienced team of Carlos Buhler and Michael Kennedy. They followed the prominent curving ice rib up the centre of the face. The difficulties were predominantly on ice over rocks, waterfall ice and unconsolidated snow.

Route Detail: South Ridge.
First made to 4300m along from Chomrong village to top, Then rested 2days, started climb from Chomrong to base camp and At 6000m found ropes of Americans in 1988, middle section of Russian route was same as American route, at 3806m(took 2 days to reach ABC from Chomrong) and started to climb ABC and South Ridge 200m below small summit at 5000m(4941m on map of German pub) and next day lower at 4700m on a ridge with many up & down sections. Ridge almost all ice with some snow; rock only 2 pitches where found American rope. Most difficult section was between 6000m to 6500m on knife ridge sometimes hard ice and sometimes strong wind.

This climb technically not so difficult climb but harder work: greater difference in altitude from Chomrong. Difficult to find route amongst rock towers, small gullies, etc & difficult knife ridge. Had to carry 2 weeks provisions with very heavy loads. Until reached 6000m very clear but cold a should be Carried 4 ropes of 45m length for more permanently. At 7000m left descending rope with ice screw and others will find this Summit is great plateau.

Day 01: Arrival Kathmandu

Day 02: Kathmandu

Day 03: Prepared Expedition & Briefing in Ministry of Tourism

Day 04: Fly to Lukla (2840) and trek to Phakding (2610) - Camp or Lodge

Day 05: Namche Bazaar (3440) - Camp or Lodge

Day 06: Namche - Thyanboche Monastery (3860) Lodge

Day 07: Thanboche – Dingboche (4410) camp or Lodge

Day 08: Dingboche – Ama Dablam North Ridge Base Camp (5200)

Day 09-25: Acclimatization/Climbing period for Ama Dablam 6812m.

Day 26: Ama  Dablam SW Ridge - Namche Bazar 

Day 27: Namche - Lukla - Lodge

Day 28: Fly Lukla - Kathmandu & transfer to hotel

Day 29: Kathmandu

Day 30: Final Departure

Cost Include

  • 4 Nights accommodation  in Kathmandu with bed & breakfast (hotel 3 star)
  • Kathmandu - Lukla - Kathmandu flight tickets with 60 KG cargo per member
  • Per member get 2 porter for carry 60 KG from Lukla to Base camp - Lukla
  • Fly ticket Kathmandu – Lukla – Kathmandu
  • Trekking from Lukla to Base camp & back to Lukla with Lodge trek lodge or camping
  • Food for trekking & Expedition period in Everest Base camp
  • Porter / Yak Lukla to Base Camp & back to Lukla (Porter transportation)
  • 1 tent for 1 person for Expedition north face brand V-25 or Similar tent
  • Dining tent, toilet tent, table and chares, Mattresses for expedition Sharing with other member
  • Liaison officer's allowances equipment for Expedition, flight ticket, insurance, daily wages sharing with other group
  • Expedition Crew’s allowances for Expedition, flight ticket, insurance, daily wages
  • Peak permit for Everest South Face spring
  • All transfer airport-hotel-airport
  • Base camp Guide, Cook, Kitchen boy and Kitchen helper sharing with other member
  •  Emergency Oxygen - Mask and regulator (If use, pay it full cost)
  • Satellite phone (Pay call)
  • Gamo Bag (life saving device incase of altitude sickness) sharing with group member
  • Solar panel for light and charges batteries
  • company service charges

Cost Exclude

  • Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu
  • High altitude climbing food, fuel, Gas  
  • Expedition personal climbing gears
  • Personal accident insurance
  • Emergency evacuation, Helicopter rescue if required
  • International airport departure tax
  • Nepal custom duty for import of expedition goods arriving into Nepal
  • Bar bills & beverage
  • Sherpa non summit bonus USD 1000
  • Sherpa summit bonus USD 1000 + 500 climbing bonus
  • Air cargo custom clearance duty fee USD 100 per person
  • Personal Satellite phone with e-mail & internet permit
  • Waki takies permit
  • Extra expenses for personal 
  • Filming permit
  • Oxygen and Mask regulator for member and Sherpa
  • Ice fall fees
  • Garbage Deposit USD 4000 (Sharing with other member)