Ama Dablam 6812m, normal route is easier than North West ridge. More steep climbing almost from ABC to TOP. You need fixed rope at 4500m. In May 1979 Jeff Lowe made a remarkable solo ascent of the wildly fluted South Face, emerging just beneath its vertical headwall on to the original route. That autumn a French expedition led by Louis Absorber also climbed the North Ridge.
It is fine route, harder than the South -West Ridge, with rock at the start, and an extravagantly corniced snow ridge near the top. While the French were on the North Ridge, disaster struck a New Zealand team attempting the West Face, when a huge section of the upper hanging glacier crashed down, killing Ken Hyslop and badly injuring peter Hillary and his other two companions. This face would appear to be very dangerous but it has since been climbed, solo by the well-known Czech climber Miri Smid in 1987.
Two routes were added in 1985. In November, Hooman Aprin and Randy Harrington (USA) with the Spaniard Martin Zabaleta climbed the South-East or (Left) Dwarfed by the immense ice cliffs of the Dablam, a lone climber abseils back to the top camp from the summit ice field. (Below) A typical situation on the South-West Ridge, near the base of the Yellow Tower , Behind is the famous silhouettes of Kantega (left) and Tramserku. ( Bill O'Connor) Lagunak Ridge, Again, this ridge was slightly harder than the original route with the main difficulties on snow mushrooms and fluting. Tucked away at the back of the mountain, normally seen only by people climbing on Island Peak or Lhotse , or from high on Everest, this secret face was a formidable and potentially dangerous challenge.
The danger was minimized by tackling the face in winter, with daytime temperatures well bellow freezing; the technical difficulties were subdued by the very experienced team of Carlos Buhler and Michael Kennedy. They followed the prominent curving ice rib up the centre of the face. The difficulties were predominantly on ice over rocks, waterfall ice and unconsolidated snow.
Route Detail: South Ridge.
First made to 4300m along from Chomrong village to top, Then rested 2days, started climb from Chomrong to base camp and At 6000m found ropes of Americans in 1988, middle section of Russian route was same as American route, at 3806m(took 2 days to reach ABC from Chomrong) and started to climb ABC and South Ridge 200m below small summit at 5000m(4941m on map of German pub) and next day lower at 4700m on a ridge with many up & down sections. Ridge almost all ice with some snow; rock only 2 pitches where found American rope. Most difficult section was between 6000m to 6500m on knife ridge sometimes hard ice and sometimes strong wind.
This climb technically not so difficult climb but harder work: greater difference in altitude from Chomrong. Difficult to find route amongst rock towers, small gullies, etc & difficult knife ridge. Had to carry 2 weeks provisions with very heavy loads. Until reached 6000m very clear but cold a should be Carried 4 ropes of 45m length for more permanently. At 7000m left descending rope with ice screw and others will find this Summit is great plateau.
Day 01: Arrival Kathmandu
Day 02: Kathmandu
Day 03: Prepared Expedition & Briefing in Ministry of Tourism
Day 04: Fly to Lukla (2840) and trek to Phakding (2610) - Camp or Lodge
Day 05: Namche Bazaar (3440) - Camp or Lodge
Day 06: Namche - Thyanboche Monastery (3860) Lodge
Day 07: Thanboche – Dingboche (4410) camp or Lodge
Day 08: Dingboche – Ama Dablam North Ridge Base Camp (5200)
Day 09-25: Acclimatization/Climbing period for Ama Dablam 6812m.
Day 26: Ama Dablam SW Ridge - Namche Bazar
Day 27: Namche - Lukla - Lodge
Day 28: Fly Lukla - Kathmandu & transfer to hotel
Day 29: Kathmandu
Day 30: Final Departure