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Kyajo Ri Peak Climbing in Nepal

In the Khumbu Himal, running just north of Namche Bazaar, is a long line of peaks continuing all the way to Cho Oyu on the Nepalese-Tibetan border. With the Thame valley to the west and the Gokyo valley to the east the 6186 meter (20,290 feet) high Kyajo Ri is the highest summit on the southern part of this ridge.
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In the Khumbu Himal, running just north of Namche Bazaar, is a long line of peaks continuing all the way to Cho Oyu on the Nepalese-Tibetan border. With the Thame valley to the west and the Gokyo valley to the east the 6186 meter (20,290 feet) high Kyajo Ri is the highest summit on the southern part of this ridge.

Over the years, on continents far and wide, we have searched for "perfect" peaks to guide. Our criteria have been pretty limiting, and climb after climb, summit after summit, though we have enjoyed them all, usually there is some serious downside to any particular route. In the Khumbu, which we have visited often, we think that Kyajo Ri comes closest to our ideal.
The peak was opened to climbing by the Nepalese Ministry of Tourism, in 2002 and the first (official) ascent was made that year by a Franco/British team. They approached from Machhermo, traversed the Kyajo Glacier and climbed via the Southwest Ridge. The same route was repeated in 2003 by a French team as an acclimatization outing in preparation for the difficult North Face of Machhermo peak, which they then climbed (Bonfire of the Vanities). Also in 2003, a Dutch team climbed the Southwest Ridge route after failing on an attempt of the east face. In 2005 An American team climbed the more difficult Southeast Ridge establishing only the second route on the peak. There have been a few other attempts on the mountain – an Australian in 2005 and an American in the spring of 2006, a Korean (perhaps), and possibly others.

There may have been other attempts or even ascents of the peak prior to its official opening in 2002. At the location of our high camp (which is not the location of any camps from the above expeditions) we found a few old cans and rock tent site enclosures. So someone had been there before us

Day 01: Arrival and transfer to hotel in Kathmandu Upon arrival in Kathmandu.

Our airport representative will be waiting outside the airport terminal a few metres from the exit door. Please check your name at play card. He will bring you to hotel in kathmandu. The drive from the airport to the hotel is around 20 minutes

 Day 02: Free day in kathmandu or self sightseeing around Kathmandu valley( option are)

Budhanilkantha:

Swoyambhunath

Pashupatinath Temple

Patan

Patan Durbar Square:

Krishna Mandir

Day 03: Fly to Lukla. Trek to Phakding

Day 04: Trek to Namche

Day 05: Rest at Namche for acclimatization

Day 06: Trek to Kisa

Day 07: Trek to Kyajo Kharka

Day 08: Trek to Kyajo Ri base camp

Day 09–15: Climbing

Day 16: Retrace to Kisa

Day 17: Trek to Namche

Day 18: Trek to Lukla

Day 19: Fly back to Kathmandu. 

Day 20: Free day in Kathmandu

Day 21: Airport transfer for international flight.

Day 22: Free day in Kathmandu or self visit to bhaktapur city.

Bhaktapur

Changu Narayan

Day 23: Tour ends

Cost Include

  • All airport/hotel transfers
  • Guided sightseeing tour in Kathmandu
  • Accommodation in Kathmandu and tented accommodation in mountain
  • Breakfast in Kathmandu and all meals and boiled water in mountain
  • All ground transportation as per the itinerary program by private vehicles
  • All necessary staffs with experienced English speaking climbing leader (guide), cook, assistant climbing leader (4 trekkers: 1 assistant guide) and Sherpa porters to carry luggage (2 trekkers:1 porter), other helpers (1 trekker: 2 helpers) including their salary, insurance, equipment, flight, food and lodging
  • All necessary paper works; trekking permits and Mera Peak climbing permit
  • Down jacket, four seasonal sleeping bag, Himalayan Glacier Trekking kit bag/duffel bag, t-shirt, trekking map and trekking Poles
  • Group mountaineering climbing and camping equipments-very high quality North Face or Mountain Hardware or similar kitchen, dining, toilet tents, mattresses, and kitchen equipments
  • Travel and rescue arrangements
  • Welcome and farewell dinner
  • Exclusive Medical Kit Bag
  • All government and local taxes

Cost Exclude

  • Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu
  • High altitude climbing food, fuel, Gas  
  • Expedition personal climbing gears
  • Personal accident insurance
  • Emergency evacuation, Helicopter rescue if required
  • International airport departure tax
  • Nepal custom duty for import of expedition goods arriving into Nepal
  • Bar bills & beverage
  • Sherpa non summit bonus USD 1000
  • Sherpa summit bonus USD 1000 + 500 climbing bonus
  • Air cargo custom clearance duty fee USD 100 per person
  • Personal Satellite phone with e-mail & internet permit
  • Waki takies permit
  • Extra expenses for personal 
  • Filming permit
  • Oxygen and Mask regulator for member and Sherpa
  • Ice fall fees
  • Garbage Deposit USD 4000 (Sharing with other member)